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Pine Wood
How to stain pine wood without stripping it?
I have a room in my house that is all pine (ceiling and all) I believe it was stained years ago, but with a light color. I'm putting a new floor in and I would like to stain the room slightly darker. Do I need to strip it first? or is there a product out, I can use to go over it to make it darker? ( I want it to be easy):) I know nothing is ever easy! Suggestions would be great. Trying to do some home improvements with the least amount of money. Thanks
Yes, Min-Wax makes a product called "PolyShades" that I use on circumstances like this regulary. The trick to a successful application is to know what to include, and how to apply it as it'll be splotchy and look like hell if you don't.
Using this straight from the can will drive you crazy when using a brush as each stroke that comes in contact with the one before it will grab and be considerably darker then the one before. . . that's the definition of splotchy. If you are going to brush this you need to use a good china bristle brush and add "Penetrol" to the Polyshades to eliminate the lift and drag of this product; the Penetrol will help not only keep a wet edge, but it will promote adhesion if there's a urethane or other clear finish. Another resource, if you get what's know as fish eye (a what appears to be a water drops marks in the product during or after application) is fish eye eliminator. Apply a test area without the fish eye remover to see if it is going to be an issue before adding it to the stain. The Penetrol is a must. I'm not certain of the pines current condition but I sand the wood finish with #320 paper, vacuum and then tack cloth before applying the stain; you can use what's called "No-Sand" or "Liquid SandPaper", but there's a time application parameter in using these, and really nothing beats actual sanding. In 9 out of 10 applications I'll spray this job as it provides the best finish.
Now, all this being said, I'm going to tell you that this is a tough job that requires a professional or professional ability to achieve an architectural grade finish with. I'll help you with it if you feel you want to give it a shot, but, there are other more DIY friendly ways to achieve good aesthetics with this room if you're willing to consider a solid type stain that willbe more like traditional painting for you. Kick it around and let me know. You can reach me here, or through my website which one of the internet addresses will appear at the bottom of my signature block below.
Wood ceilings & walls are common and a matter of design and taste. . . you see it alot in the Midwest, West and states like Kentucky, Tennessee, Virginia and particularly in rustic and log cabin construction.
Mike Lonergan
TradesProfessional, Inc.
http://tradesprofessional.us
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Ultra Fast Pine Wood Derby - No Rules
Do I have to prime a piece of pine wood?
I am painting a small pine shelf. It is new and never painted. I want to find out if I really need to prime it first or not. What are the pros/cons of priming?
Primer will give you a uniform surface to paint resulting in a better finish. Pine is notorious for absorbing paints and stains differently on different parts of the grain. Primer will prevent this. Primer can also seal any tannins in the wood so they will not bleed into the paint. Sand it first with 120 or 150 grit sandpaper to remove any mill glaze. Be sure to allow enough time for the paint to fully cure before putting anything on the shelf.
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